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| Ellie's
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Ellie and Hub lived in Lagoa 10
years ago, while in their early 40's, they had a carpentry business near
Algoz.
You can reach Ellie at: Gantree1@aol.com |
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Fado Night
It was the last Sunday of my holidays and yet another gorgeous sunny
day. For a whole month, from early September I had been blessed with
wall to wall sunshine. Not one single day had I cause to wear my
'roll up mac' which most of we Brits tend to pack 'just in case'!
The previous night I had, once again, a late night with some friends
from Colombos so spent most of Sunday morning lolling about. In the
afternoon I had met and spent a good few hours with Susana and her
family from Portimao, so by the time I came home in the early
evening tiredness just swept over me once more and I was soon curled
up and dozing off in the armchair,
A car, noisily starting up below the apartment had me wake with a
start. Focusing bleary eyes on my watch I saw with alarm that it was
9pm. By then I should have been making my way over to the 'Casa da
Pao' restaurant ready to see and hear my first ever live performance
of Fado!
It was a warm night and as I took a quick shower, utter weariness
still weighed me down. In no way was I in the mood for listening to
singing; especially Fado. I had been warned by several friends, both
Portuguese and Brits, that it was sad stuff; lovers laments. To take
plenty of tissues as I would probably need them! But I had promised
my friends, the owners of Casa da Pao that I would come along to
listen, make notes and write about the evening's events.
As I made my way up the restaurant stairs I could see and hear that
the place was full, tables filled with families, couples, friends.
My loneliness hit me; everybody was with someone and as I looked
around me nowhere could I see a table for two let alone one! Then
Joaquim, the owner spotted me, came over, kissed me on both cheeks
saying
"Ah Ellie. Its good to see you. One moment and Ill have place ready
for you". Immediately I felt better, but as he said this, I looked
down into my handbag and saw that I hadn't brought my purse. I told
him and he said it was no problem. I could pay "Amanha"! But I said
no, I would go back to fetch it. Having been robbed in Lisboa during
my last holiday, I was being extra careful and I wanted to make
sure I still had my purse!
In ten minutes or so I was back and my place, at a long and at first
glance empty table, was ready. My watch said almost 10.10pm. I don't
think Id ever eaten quite that late before but I was hungry and soon
I was tucking into olives, bread and goats cheese. Waiter Joaquim
opened half bottle of a Lagoan Rose and taking my order for grilled
salmon steak, whispered "The Fado is soon to begin"!
Looking around me I saw that it was mostly couple, families or
groups of friends. I heard a few English voices but the majority
were Portuguese. About six seats away from me a young British couple
sat at the end of my table; they gave me a smile, nodded. Suddenly I
didn't feel quite so lonely.
Two instrumentalists came to the centre of the room and sat on
chairs; Carlos Placido on guitar and Jose Pinto on viola. They
tuned-up and then played a couple of melodies; the lovely tunes,
along with my rose wine and genial company soon had me relaxed and I
simply let the wonderful soporific feeling envelop me.
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Carlos Placido |
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Suddenly, there was a movement from the table in front of where I
sat and a small elderly man left his seat and walked over to
stand in front of the musicians. He smiled, introduced himself and
then Jose Cabrita started to sing Fado 'Coimbra style'!
It was a treat and I sat amazed at the wonderful voice that emanated
from that slight frame. My introduction to Fado had begun and I was
smitten! |
Jose Cabrita & wife. |
Jose Cabrita finished his songs and rejoined his wife to continue
their meal. The guitarist and viola player continued to entertain
us; each doing a little solo. I sat, enthralled at the skill of
these true artists. They needed no microphone or 'sound' equipment
to help emphasise their natural talent and and they finished to
rapturous applause!
The lights dimmed and once again the musicians began to 'tune-up'.
From the back of the dining room a small elegant figure emerged. A
pretty senhora dressed in sparkling black gown and shawl came to
stand before us. Fadista Maria da Saudade, the star turn was here to
entertain us. Soon her beautiful voice had us in raptures. It was
superb; I had come prepared with tissues, expecting to be sad and
melancholy but it was quite the reverse. I was thoroughly enjoying
myself. Okay, I couldn't follow much of the words but the voice and
music was enough and I was completely immersed in the whole scene!
What made it so intimate and enjoyable was the fact that the
Portuguese who were listening, joined in with the 'chorus' of most
songs and though I didn't know the words, it was so infectious I
found myself humming or 'lala-ing' as well!
Senhora da Saudade was just finishing her last song as my dinner
arrived. Everyone gave her rousing applause as she went off to join
her husband and party of friends.
The salmon steak was huge, filling almost 2 thirds of the plate. It
was also very hot, the butter and lemon sauce fairly sizzling! As
the waiter refilled my wine glass I asked if it would be possible to
take a photo of the Fadista and musicians and would they care to
join me in a drink?
Before long, Senhora Maria and the musicians were standing by my
table with raised glasses of beer. Fadista Maria said they would be
happy to pose for photos after Id had my dinner. I thanked them and
then attacked the pink juicy steak before me!
So engrossed in my delectable meal I was suddenly startled by the
sound of a deep baritone voice. The guitarist and viola player had
been playing little tunes but I hadn't noticed the large man appear
at the side of the dining room and was now singing at the end of my
table. It was now Senhor Laferras turn to serenade us and serenade
us he did, magnificently so and once again many of the tunes were
well-known to the audience who happily joined in each chorus as he
moved around the tables, his warm deep voice and engaging manner
quite infectious.
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Jose
Pinto |
But there was a slightly amusing side to his performance. The young
English couple that sat the other end of my table, were within about
30 centimetres of Senhor Laferra's large frame and barrel chest!
They too, were eating their dinner and I noticed that every time he
hit a particularly loud and deep note, the young woman physically
jumped! Both she and her husband gave a nervous little laugh but I
think they found it a bit difficult trying to concentrate on eating
their meal and the Fadista's fine vocal performance!
I was about to tackle my ice-cream dessert when the owner Joaquim
came over and said Senhora Maria was ready for the the photos. They
were waiting for me, Maria, Jose and Carlos along with a large party
of friends! I'm not a very good photographer and with all looking on
I suddenly felt rather nervous. But they were all very nice
and friendly to me and some spoke good English, so I was able to
tell them of Carvoeiro.com and of my Corner on the site. It was a
wonderful evening and with this great company of people all thoughts
of loneliness had vanished. But, the evening wasn't over!
I was about to return to my melting ice-cream when I was invited to
join Senhor Jose Cabrita and his wife at their table. We had a drink
together and I took a photo of this very warm friendly couple. Then
Senhor Jose told me how, as a younger man, he worked for many years
in south Africa and also of his love for singing fado. I remarked
our very well they both looked, obviously a very happy healthy
couple. Then he told me they lived in Lagoa and by coincidence, not
very far from my former home there; that they walked regularly every
day to stay healthy; their walk taking them to beyond the Fatacil
area and back. But on weekends they rested!
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Fadista Senhora Maria da Saudade, Jose Pinto &
Carlos Placido. |
As we talked I heard the musicians tuning-up once more and as I
turned to watch, a slim silver-haired man stood before them and
proceeded to sing. I found myself completely enraptured. His style
of singing Fado was again different to those who had sung before.
Its very hard to explain in the written word but to me it was simply
(for want of a better word) so 'clever'! He 'lilted' the phrases and
his face held quite a serious expression. I couldn't understand the
words but felt this was a more passionate style and I was totally
engrossed. In fact I was sorry when the performance ended. I never
found out this man's name but I would love and hope to hear him sing
again.
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Ellie
& Fadista Senhora Maria da Saudade
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The evenings singing came to an end as
Senhora Maria da Saudade made a re-entrance and once more we were
treated to that beautiful voice singing lovely tunes and with
everyone joining in. The last tune was a favourite of mine 'April in
Portugal'; beginning "I found my April love, in Portugal with you".
I don't know the Portuguese version but I sang along in English and
had a great time! It was only then that I looked around and noticed
that apart from a Dutch couple everybody else was Portuguese but I
felt completely at home!
I ended the evening having coffee with Senhor Cabrita and his wife.
As we sat there talking the sound of the 'Happy Birthday' song came
from the other side of the room. Then two hands appeared through the
palm plants that separated us from that side, holding out 2 plates
containing slices of birthday cake! It was Senhora Maria's and
Guitarist Carlos' birthday!
I took my leave of 'Casa da Pao' well after midnight but not before
thanking owner Joaquim, the waiters but most of all my new 'Fado
friends' for giving me a wonderfully entertaining evening; one in
which I had never had to use one single tissue! |
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